How to Set Tile
Layout & Cutting
The best layouts minimize the number of cut tiles, avoid using cuts that are less than 1/2 the width of the tile, and position cut tiles symmetrically (the same on both sides of the wall). Typically it is difficult to achieve all of these goals, therefore you will end up making compromises that yield the best results.
Tip
Expansion Joints: All tile installations must allow for "expansion joints". These are 1/8 in. to 1/4 in. spaces along the length where tile meets adjacent walls, countertop meets a backsplash, etc. These will later be filled with caulk.
- Find the area center point and, using a Chalk Line Tool, snap perpendicular lines through it to divide into quarters. Check the intersection of the angles using a Framing Square; make sure they are square.
- Before using adhesive, dry lay out one vertical row and one horizontal row in a quarter (see picture) allow for even grout lines and for “expansion joints”
- Adjust the starting line to find the best layout. Pieces less than half a tile wide are hard to cut and are less visually appealing. If end tiles are less than half a tile wide, reposition the vertical center line. If the problem is unavoidable, try to position them in an inconspicuous area.
Cutting
- Place a loose tile atop the last full tile and position it to butt against the wall or corner, or edge where tile stops.
- Lay a second loose tile over the first and align it with the last full tile.
- Mark the cut line on the “sandwiched” tile. Remember to allow for grout lines and a gap of 1/8” to 1/4” where the tile butts walls and other surfaces. Due to variations in wall runs, each tile should be butted, measured and cut individually (rather than taking a single measurement and cutting a number of tiles at once). For straight cuts, use a tile cutter. “Polish” the edges with a rubbing brick.
Applying the Mortar and Installing Tile
Begin installing at the center point of the surface and move outward, one quarter at a time. Work toward the exit to avoid stepping over freshly-laid tile. When this is unavoidable, kneel on a plywood sheet.
- With the flat edge of the trowel, apply thin-set at the intersection of the guidelines. Be sure to apply an even coat. Work only a three sq. ft. area at a time, or the area that can be covered with tiles before thin-set or adhesive loses tackiness to the touch (see picture 1).
- Now go back and “comb” the material with the notched section of the trowel, forming ridges for better adhesion. (see picture 2)
- Press the tile into position at the intersection of the lines, with a slight twisting motion. (see picture 3) Do not slide the tile into place. Use spacers between tiles (see picture 4) to maintain joint width. Install tile in a step-like fashion, working upward and outward. This permits easier adjustment of tiles if there is an error (see picture 5).
- Complete one quarter first before going to the next. If the mortar starts to “skin-over” on the surface before you lay the tile on it, scrape it off and apply new adhesive.
- Periodically check to see that joints are straight and even. Once aligned, tamp down tiles with a beating block and mallet to ensure tiles are level (see picture 6). If adhesive or thin-set oozes from joints, wipe with warm, soapy water. 2/3 of tile thickness in the grout joints should be clean to allow for grout.
- Clean tools with warm, soapy water while adhesive is still wet.
- Let tile sit before grouting; see product packaging for details on wait times.
